We hadn’t planned to go to Gili Air when we did. We were in Mataram, looking for a good snorkelling spot, when someone mentioned there was a cheap slow boat heading out. We thought: why not?, hopped on our bike and drove through the jungle to the harbour.

We booked nothing in advance, showed up at the harbour and figured it out from there. It turned out to be a lovely spontaneous mini-vacation during our travels. We only ended up staying one night, but we would have liked to stay longer.

Gili Air is one of three small islands off the northwest coast of Lombok in Indonesia. The other two are Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno. Most people have heard of Gili Trawangan: the party island, full of beach clubs and late nights. Gili Meno is the quiet one, mostly visited by families and couples, who are looking for a bit of a honeymoon-vibe. Gili Air sits in the middle and stole our hearts a little. It’s relaxed, easy, friendly and with decent snorkeling, right from the shore.

Gili Air vs Gili Trawangan: Which One Should You Choose?

Gili Trawangan, also known as Gili T, is the famous one. It’s busy, it’s social and if you want beach bars, parties and a full backpacker scene, it delivers. We skipped it. We’d been travelling for a while and didn’t feel like loads of noise and big crowds. We wanted to snorkel, eat well and sleep.

Gili Air island gave us exactly that. The vibe is relaxed without being dead. There are plenty of restaurants and bars, the beaches are good and the water is excellent for snorkelling. You’ll find other travellers here but it never felt overwhelming. The streets are cozy, the pace is slow and nobody is trying to sell you a party package.

If you’re coming to the Gili Islands to relax and snorkel, Gili Air is the right choice. If you want to go out, go to Gili Trawangan. Both are fine for what they are. They just feel completely different.

How to Get to Gili Air

Gili Air island is easy to reach from Lombok, Bali and the other Gili islands. The most common route is the slow public boat from Bangsal harbour on the northwest coast of Lombok, but there are options depending on where you’re coming from.

No matter which route you take, you’ll arrive at the small harbour on the west side of the island. From there everything is on foot.

From Lombok

The cheapest and most straightforward option is the slow public boat from Bangsal harbour on the northwest coast of Lombok. It costs 18,000 IDR per person (less than €1) and takes about 20-30 minutes. The boat leaves when it’s full, so waiting times vary. We waited around half an hour on the way there and about 90 minutes on the return. It’s cheap and it works, as long as you are flexible with your travel times.

We parked our scooter at a secured parking area just outside the harbour with CCTV. It was easy to find and well organised. Depending on where you’re coming from in Lombok, there are two ways to get there by motorbike:

• Getting to Bangsal from Mataram or the south of Lombok:
  Take the jungle route. It winds through the mountains, past cliffs, small villages and a lot of monkeys. The road is narrow and winding in places but not difficult. It’s one of the better rides on the island and worth doing for the scenery alone.
• Getting to Bangsal from Senggigi: The coastal road is the quicker option and also very scenic, just in a different way. Senggigi is only about 12 km from Bangsal, so it’s a short ride.

There is also a fast boat from Bangsal to Gili Air for 85,000 IDR, but the slow boat is fine and costs a fraction of the price.

From Bali

Fast boats run directly from several ports in Bali to Gili Air island. Most depart from Padang Bai in east Bali, which is the closest crossing point. The journey takes about 1.5-2 hours and prices start from around $15-20 USD one way. Gili Air is usually the last stop after Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno.

The Lombok Strait can get rough, especially in rainy season. If you’re prone to seasickness, take medication before you board and try to sit in the middle of the boat.

From Gili Trawangan or Gili Meno

Island hopping boats run between all three Gili islands daily. From Gili Trawangan to Gili Air the slow boat costs 23,000 IDR and takes about 15 minutes. From Gili Meno to Gili Air it’s 20,000 IDR and takes about 10-15 minutes.

Getting Around Gili Air Island

No motorised vehicles on Gili Air Indonesia. That’s one of the first things you notice when you arrive and it makes an immediate difference to the atmosphere. The streets are quiet and you can hear the sea, which was very relaxing right from our arrival.

You can walk, cycle or rent an electric small scooter on the island. The island is small enough to loop in under an hour on a bike. Some of the beach roads are made of sand though, so you might as well walk.

There are also horse-taxis, named cidomos. I only have one recommendation: Don’t use them. The horses are small and have to pull carts full of tourists in the heat. You can walk the island in under an hour. There is no excuse for taking one. It’s animal cruelty dressed up as a local experience and tourists should know better. So don’t be lazy, get off your arse and take a walk or book an accommodation close to the port. 

The island is compact and easy to navigate on foot. The northeast side is where the best snorkelling is.

Where to Stay on Gili Air

We hadn’t booked anything before we arrived, which left us with limited options within our budget. We ended up at Gusung Indah Bungalow and it turned out to be one of the nicest places we’d slept in months.

The bungalow was beautiful, the staff were warm and welcoming and there were sun beds right on the beach in front of the property. They greeted us with a welcome drink. The location was right near Turtle Point on the northeast side of the island, which is the best spot for snorkelling.

Before we booked, we read the reviews and almost talked ourselves out of it. Low water pressure, a bit of dust, air conditioning too cold. Our take: this is classic feedback from people who’ve only ever stayed in Bali resorts and expect that as the baseline. Read reviews with some perspective. For the price and location, Gusung Indah was excellent.

Book ahead if you’re visiting in peak season. We got lucky showing up spontaneously, but that’s not a strategy we’d recommend in July or August.

Snorkelling on Gili Air

This is the main reason to come to Gili Air island and it doesn’t disappoint.

We went snorkelling straight from the beach in front of our bungalow at Turtle Point. Within the first 30 minutes we saw two eels and a sea turtle. The next morning we swam a bit further out and found large stretches of coral in good condition, with big formations, lots of fish and clear water.

This was snorkelling from the shore, no boat needed, which made Gili Air one of our favourite places in Indonesia. We love it when you can just take your time in the water, without a guide waiting on the boat, telling you where to go or when to go in or out. Snorkel gear is available to rent cheaply from multiple spots on the island.

Snorkel trips by boat are available and take you to spots around the island and the surrounding waters. These will show you more and go to better coral, but the shore snorkelling here is good enough that you don’t have to bother if budget is a concern.

Food and Drink on Gili Air

The food scene on Gili Air island is better than you might expect from a small Indonesian island. Restaurants are relaxed and comfortable, prices are higher than mainland Lombok but still reasonable.

The best meal we had in Indonesia, I swear, was at Ruby’s Cafe. The rice was cooked perfectly, the meat was well seasoned and it came with multiple side dishes, sauces and salads. This was Indonesian food at its best. The limon mint lemonade was excellent too.

After we checked out we walked back towards the harbour and stopped for avocado toast with egg at a small cafe along the way. After weeks of rice and noodles, it felt like a small luxury. Prices are noticeably higher than on the Lombok mainland but the quality is there to match. Budget around 60,000-100,000 IDR (€3-€5) per person for a meal with a drink.

The Atmosphere on Gili Air

The vibe of Gili Air Indonesia made us enjoy it even more. The island felt easy. The streets were cute, the people were friendly, the restaurants had good energy and nobody hassled us. The pace was exactly what we needed after a busy stretch of travelling.

Compared to Gili Gede, one of the Secret Gili’s, the difference was significant. On Gili Gede we felt unwelcome for most of our stay. On Gili Air Indonesia we felt comfortable from the moment we arrived.

It’s not the most undiscovered place. There are tourists everywhere and the island is set up for them. But it hasn’t lost its character. It still feels like a real place rather than a resort with a beach attached.

Practical Information

• Getting there from Lombok: slow boat from Bangsal, 18,000 IDR, 20-30 minutes. Buy your ticket at the official booth and ignore anyone else trying to sell you one.
• Getting there from Bali: fast boat from Padang Bai, from around $15-20 USD, 1.5-2 hours.
• Getting there from Gili Trawangan: slow boat, 23,000 IDR, about 15 minutes.
• Getting there from Gili Meno: slow boat, 20,000 IDR, about 10-15 minutes.
• Getting around: on foot or by bicycle. Do not take the cidomo.
• Best snorkelling: northeast side of the island, around Turtle Point. Go early morning for the calmest water.
• ATM: there are ATMs on Gili Air but they can run out of cash in peak season. Bring enough rupiah from Lombok or Bali.
• No motorised vehicles: on the island itself. Leave your scooter at the Bangsal parking area.

Budget Breakdown: 2 People, 1 Night

	IDR	EUR approx.
Accommodation (1 night, breakfast included)	600,000	€30
Slow boat return (2 people)	72,000	€3.60
Lunch	250,000	€12.50
Dinner	250,000	€12.50
Coconut + watermelon juice	65,000	€3.25
Total	1,237,000	~€62

Is Gili Air Worth It?

Yes, without a doubt.

It’s not the cheapest stop on a Lombok trip. Food and accommodation cost more than on the mainland. But the snorkelling is excellent, the atmosphere is right and the island is easy to navigate and enjoy.

If you’re deciding between the three Gili islands and you want to relax and snorkel rather than party, Gili Air island is the one. We went for one night and wished we’d booked more.

Conclusion

Gili Air caught us by surprise. We showed up with no plan and left wishing we’d stayed longer. The snorkelling at Turtle Point, the food at Ruby’s Cafe and the general ease of the island made it one of the highlights of our time in Lombok.

If you’re on Lombok and wondering whether to make the trip: I’d tell you to go. Take the slow boat from Bangsal, eat at Ruby’s and get in the water. There is accommodation for every type of budget really, as long as you book in advance.